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Extremely complex global market,Unclear consumer tastes,Fast-changing technological forms,Luxuryink>BrandBusiness challenges have risen to unprecedented levels.
Italian luxuryBrandPradaIt was not easy to hand over a copy after yesterday's session."Analysis"Financial report of.Analysts have mixed comments on it.,There are few peoplePradaThe future development gives a clearer forecast.However, such confusion actually reflects a general mood in the market in the current changes.
At the end of6Month30diurnal6Within months,At real-time exchange rates,PradaGroup Sales Increase Year on Year2%To15.7Euro 100 million,Although slightly higherFactSetAnalysts' Expectations,But below the global average growth rate of luxury goods,Compared with the same period last year3.3%There has also been a slowdown.
The group's profit surged before interest, tax, depreciation and amortization.31.2%To4.91Euro 100 million,Net profit soared57%To1.5Euro 100 million.But it is worth paying attention to,This is mainly due to tax incentives for patent boxes.The group's operating profit fell13％.Bernstein analystLuca Solcashow,After eliminating the one-off effect,Thisink>CompanyIn fact, the profit will be higher than that of2018The first half of the year was low.14％.
By brand,PradaSales were basically flat.,Growth1%To12.37Euro 100 million.Miu MiuNot performing well,Sales fell8%To2.35Euro 100 million.Church'sSales growth3%To3200Ten thousand euros,Sales Growth of Other Brands8%To800Ten thousand euros.
By category,The core leather goods and footwear departments were basically the same as in the same period last year.,However, the ready-to-wear business is driven by women's and men's clothing collections.,Sales rose sharply.8%,Linea RossaThe performance of the series is outstanding.,Positive Retail Price Optimistic,Full-price sales rose in the first half of the year.2％,Partly due toPradaDecided to stop the end-of-season discount promotion.Group approval637The network of direct stores and luxury department stores、Network of independent retailers and specialty stores,In the world70Sales in 30 countries.
Except .Off-White,The group also has a potential brand matrix,Including the popular brands in European and American marketsPalm Angels、A designer brand mainly based on street styleHeron Preston、Unravel Project、Marcelo Burlon、A Plan Application,as well as2017Italian Knitting Brand Acquired inAlanuiWait.
Last year10Month,Claudio AntonioliIn accepting the Italian versionFashion NetworkAccording to the interview,He andDavide GiglioHolding groups46.5％Shares of,Marcelo BurlonHave7％Shares of.New Guards GroupIn the creationMarcelo BurlonAfter the brand with the same name,On the one hand, direct acquisitionUnravel ProjectAndAlanuiSuch as the majority stake in mature brands,On the other hand, with designersink>CooperationLaunch a new brand,The latter is considered to have more development potential.
Palm AngelsBy concurrentlyMonclerArt director'sFrancesco RagazziIn2015Founded in,Brand inspiration comes fromRalph LaurenAndTommy HilfigerSuch as American fashion in the eighties,When it was launched, it was hit by rappers.Pharrell WilliamsSupport for,Not long ago.Palm AngelsAlso forMoncler GeniusThe project launched a series of capsules.Heron PrestonFormerKanye WestThe artistic director is also atNikeWork,Earlier, a fashion show was held in Paris Men's Wear Week.This year,New Guards GroupBut also with the hottest womanDJ Peggy GouLaunch a fashion brandKirin.
"Circle culture"InNew Guards GroupIs clearly reflected.The group andKanye WestThe origin is quite deep.,FromKanye WestEstablishedDondaComposed by artists"Disciples"IncludingVirgil Abloh,Tide brand1017 ALYX 9SMPrincipalMatthew Williams,Jerry Lorenzo,Tide brandA-Cold-WallPrincipalSamuel Ross,Heron Preston.among them,Virgil AblohAndHeron PrestonAt present, all of them areNew Guards GroupWork.AndPeggy GouAlso withVirgil AblohPeople such as personal friends are very good.
Grasp the key talents,makeNew Guards GroupWe have mastered the main discourse power of today's trend culture.At a time when trend culture is moving from marginalization to center,New Guards GroupThe development prospect of is favored by the industry.
From the point of production form,New Guards GroupIt is also different from traditional brand management.Company,Pursuing a more independent and efficient way of working.
It is reported that,New Guards GroupThe group holds shares in all subsidiaries.,But specificallyCooperationIn a different way.The group creates an operating company for each brand,All designers have equity participation,The group bought some brands15Years to25Franchise in,Distribution and production are mainly completed in Italy and Portugal.The group has various brands in its Milan headquarters.ink>OfficeRoom,But all brandsink>ProductsDesign and marketing are all independent.In such a management structure,Brands operate independently,Designers also don't need to go to headquarters frequently.
But while the brand provides enough independent space,New Guards GroupThe group has also created synergy in production and distribution.Last year, the Group held talks in Hong Kong forOff-White,Palm AngelsAndHeron PrestonSeveral stores have been opened,Claudio AntonioliDisclose,The group usually chooses to set up shop with its partners.Last year9Month,Off-WhiteOpening Second Macao Store.At presentOff-WhiteAlready in Shanghai, the mainland of China、Beijing、Tianjin and Xi 'an open6A shop,Opening in Hong Kong3A shop,With the exception of Macao stores, its partners are fashion retail groups with extensive retail channel networks.I.T.
As of this year4End of month,New Guards GroupIncome3.45$100 million,Profit before tax9,500$10,000.cut-off6The first half of the fiscal year at the end of the month,New Guards GroupIncome growth59%To1.90$100 million,Gross margin55%,Pre-tax profit growth83%To5700$10,000.Earlier data showed that,With the popularity of young consumers,Off-WhiteThe annual sales volume of a single brand is from2014Years old260Ten thousand euros soared to2017Years old5650Ten thousand euros,It also means short4Won in21Double growth,Causing more and more interest in the market.
But .,New Guards GroupAt lastFarfetchNa ordered the industry to be surprised.Almost no one thought that luxury fashion electricians would eventually reach upstream.,Acquisition of a Fashion Brand Management Company.But .,Dig deeper,This is also in line withFarfetchRecent layout ideas,That is to conquer young people in taste.
Super Imitation Panerai Mechanical Men's WatchPrice,How much?A Boston consulting firm is2019Published at Cannes Creative Advertising Festival in《2019Consumer Digital Behavior Report in Chinese Luxury Market》display,In the highly digital era,Yes80%Of Chinese consumers will be influenced by social media when making purchasing decisions.,The WeChat ecosystem is the social platform most used by consumers in discovery and research.,Followed by micro blog and little red book.From2014Beginning in,The compound growth rate of China's social media-based sales scale has reached as high as127%.
Fan Yijin, general manager of Tencent's major advertising customer sales operations, also pointed out in his speech,In the past10China was in an era of rapid growth in,The consumption path has long been reconstructed.,No longer traditional"Cognitive（Awareness）-Interest（Interest）-Buy（Purchase）-Loyalty（Loyalty）",When they browse WeChat public accounts、WeChat group、In the circle of friends,You will decide to buy at any time because of a piece of information.
It is reported that,WeChat is testing a new traffic entrance internally.——Use the payment page to guide the fans of offline stores.A person close to WeChat said,The new function of WeChat payment mentioned above is still in the internal testing stage.,At present, this function is limited to face-to-face payment.According to the above sources,Merchants can choose to set a WeChat account in the background as"Group customer service",The two-dimensional code of WeChat will be displayed on the user's click."Join the welfare group of merchants"Later pages,Users can join the welfare group by adding customer service as friends.
The other side is called"Chinese versionInstagram"Little Red Riding Book failed in the water test of e-commerce.Little Red Riding Book by Mao Wenchao and Qu Fangyu2013Founded in,Initially positioned as a sharing platform for Haitao shopping,Designed to help users"Find the best things in the world",Later, it gradually attracted a large number of users to spontaneously produce high-quality notes.,We have accumulated the first batch of users who really need cross-border shopping and formed a community atmosphere of re-operation.,2015The average number of monthly starts of Little Red Riding Book exceeded in50next/people,Single use time reaches130More than minutes.
At high viscosity、Driven by the three factors of high activity and mainly female users,Little Red Riding Book Begins to Incline to E-commerce,The first self-operated cross-border e-commerce business was launched in the second year of its establishment."Welfare society".In order to control the e-commerce business more flexibly and flexibly,Red Riding Book Chooses Full Self-management,The platform is not only responsible for the selection、Procurement、Customs、Customer service,It also won two bonded warehouses that handle hundreds of thousands of orders a day and two overseas warehouses.,Combining Community Barrier and Data Selection to Realize Transaction Closed Loop.
On the selection,Red Riding Book Uses Explosions of Thinking,Some of the most popular commodities come from the community.,The other part comes from the excavation of potential explosion models.,At the same time, it will also attract brand merchants.、Suppliers andAgentCommercial settlement,But for these upstream channels,The platform side lacks the control ability,The problem of mixed selling of true and false has always existed.,Gradually become a stumbling block of little red book drainage.
At the same time,The Little Red Riding Book Team is also expanding,The total number of employees reached last year.2000people.Little Red Riding Book stressed in an internal letter to employees,UseProductsTo influence the lifestyle of a new generation of young people is the group's unchanging first intention.
But in the face of Alibaba、The Accelerating Layout of E-commerce Giant such as Netease Koala and Weipin International in the Field of Amoy,Little Red Riding Book in Commodity Price、Neither logistics nor after-sales experience has advantages.,According to easy-to-see data,by2018The fourth quarter of,Red Riding Book Ranks 6th in the Scale of Cross-border Import Retail E-commerce Market,Only3.7%.
Realize that e-commerce is not your strong point、After being unable to compete with the giants,Little Red Riding Book suddenly refocused on the content and community sectors last year, Abolish e-commerce department50%Staff of,The division of the department by commodity category10The remaining groups will also be reduced to single digits.,Qu Fang stressed more times in public that Little Red Riding Book is a community rather than an e-commerce.
Some people in the industry pointed out that,InstagramIts advantage lies in its natural fashion soil.、The huge number of fans accumulated by brands and the ease with which consumers can browse their favorite brands and brands.KOLThe latest dynamic algorithm,On Amazon or other retailers' websites and applications,Consumers usually need to browse dozens of pages and hundreds of products,To select the required products.
eMarketerAnalystAndrew LipsmanDescribe a way,InstagramLike an online window,This is no different from a blow to Amazon and other traditional retailers.,Or force traditional retailers to adjust their digital strategy.According to the data,Amazon's current monthly active users are5calculate,YesInstagramHalf of.